Here's a definitive guide on how to buy the best Diamond ring ever, period.
Now we are Of course biased to our own brand, but we took the time and effort to actually read all the reviews, and guides from popular brands in combination with our own experience in the field. [Experience of both sourcing, selling and gathering feedback from our customers]
The Budget?
Budget is really a way of establishing a spending limit on the ring and it can be broadly divided into 3 categories:
- For those who are very cost-conscious or for whom the stone’s quality is less important (i.e., they just want a basic ring), it's advisable to choose a Very Good Cut diamond with I/K color and SI1 clarity, around half a carat or so. While it may not be a spectacular stone, it will offer solid value and is likely better than what many people end up with.
- Most people can achieve excellent results at reasonable prices by selecting an Excellent or Ideal Cut diamond with H/J color and VS1 clarity, weighing between 0.5 and 1 carat.
- To acquire an outstanding stone while maintaining a healthy budget, consider a diamond with an Excellent or Ideal Cut or a Vendor’s Top Cut, featuring Hearts & Arrows-level symmetry, G/I color, and VVS2 clarity. This combination will provide you with a stunning stone that cannot be improved upon at any price, all while saving you money.
The 4 C's of Diamonds, and how to Choose them?
The 4 C's are Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat, and the best way to choose them is in this exact order.
Cut
Why the focus on Cut first? Because that’s what people see, and it’s what makes a diamond shine and sparkle like, well, a diamond.
Generally, you want to spend extra money on the Cut first, then choose the Carat size your budget allows; do not do the reverse or you’ll get a big dull rock (plus, a well-cut smaller diamond looks bigger anyway).
Cut Basics
Cuts have confusing names, but the GIA “Excellent” or AGS “Ideal” are the top Cuts. However, many websites then have their own branded “even better” Cuts, such as Blue Nile’s “Astor Ideal” or James Allen’s “True Hearts”, be wary since this isn't officially certified by any of the diamond certification agencies but marketed as beyond the best.
When shopping on line, start with the best Cut the seller offers, then set Color & Clarity as noted below, and adjust the Carat to your budget. That’s the simplest way to get the best diamond.
Note that for a GIA Report with Excellent Cut, also ensure you have Excellent Polish & Excellent Symmetry. Never settle for less than the best in all areas of a Cut report.
Advanced Cut Concepts
To go beyond the simple website or rating Cut selectors like “Ideal”, there are two additional steps you should take if you are motivated and want the very best light performance. These can greatly enhance even the smallest stones.
1 — The first evaluation is known as Hearts & Arrows, which uses a special viewer to see if the stone is really symmetrical and cut correctly.
If you are in a jewelry store, you should bring your own IdealScope viewer, as stores rarely have them (maybe they don’t want you looking too closely at their diamonds?) There are online guides on how to use these viewers, and what to look for when examining stones.
2 — You should get the Diamond’s cut details, especially the percentages and cut angles, as these are what really affect the diamond’s light performance. This is a complicated area, but well-worth your time if you want the very best cut diamonds.
Some sites provide these numbers directly, as do some grading reports (GIA reports should have this). For websites that don’t have Cut details, you can often request the site to hold a diamond or two for you while they send you both the Hearts & Arrows images and the Cut details.
For the very best Cut proportions, ensure your diamond has the following percentages & angles, though note they are approximate, as different sources have slightly different numbers. It’s better to be in the middle of these ranges:
- Table: 53–58%
- Depth: 61–62.5%
- Crown Angle: 34–36%
- Pavilion Angle: 40.6–41%
- Lower Girdle: 75–80%
- Girdle Thickness: T-M-ST (Thin/Med/Slightly-Thick)
Color
Color grading for diamonds is straightforward and is measured on a scale from D to Z, with D being the “best” grade, indicating a colorless diamond. It's very easy to overspend on color, so it's essential to choose wisely to save money for the cut and carat of the diamond. A great cut can mask minor color issues by maximizing light performance, which can allow you to opt for a lower color grade and save on cost.
Keep in mind that larger diamonds tend to show more color, so for stones over 1 carat, you might need to adjust the color rating upward—for example, from H to G or K to J.
Optimal Diamond Color Depends on the Ring Setting
The most important factor in selecting diamond color is the color of the ring setting, which can significantly affect the perceived color of the diamond. Common setting choices include white gold and yellow gold.
For white gold settings, aim for a diamond that is fairly colorless to ensure it looks bright and shiny in the setting. A G or H grade, which are nearly colorless, is ideal. Higher grades like D-F are usually much more expensive and may not be worth the investment.
If you prefer a yellow gold setting, color becomes less critical. The yellow hue of the ring will add warmth to the diamond, making higher color grades, such as D or F, unnecessary. Instead, consider choosing a J or K color diamond to save significantly on your purchase.
Clarity
Clarity is also an easy choice, and another area where you can waste money. It’s graded from IF (Internally Flawless) to VVS1-2 (Very Very Slightly Included), VS1–2 (Very Slightly Included), SI1 (Slightly Included) and then the lower grades. “Inclusions” refer to flaws that affect light performance.
Generally choose a VS2 diamond, and maybe VS1 for larger stones over 1.5 Carats (though try to get VVS2 for non-GIA graded diamonds). You can get away with an SI1 as a budget choice, especially if you can see a good Hearts & Arrows image to make sure the inclusions don’t affect light performance.
Carat
Many people prioritize a diamond's weight, typically after considering the Cut, Clarity, and Color. Weight is the final factor to take into account when purchasing a diamond. Buyers generally select a weight that aligns with their budget and personal preferences, keeping in mind that larger is not always better, especially for bigger stones.
Diamond prices significantly increase as the stone's size grows, particularly at certain weight milestones such as 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 carats. Often, diamonds weighing 0.9, 1.4, and 1.9 carats offer excellent value without compromising on noticeable size.
Here are our general thoughts on carat sizes:
- 0.5 Carat — This is the standard size many people envision when thinking about diamonds, and it's affordable for nearly everyone. It makes a great choice for those on a limited budget or for those seeking a simple ring that carries tradition and meaning. However, a 0.75 carat stone may appear more substantial. Visit a jeweler or diamond retailer to compare this size with others, and by following the guidelines here, you can find bright and attractive diamonds at reasonable prices.
- 1.0 Carat — A 1-carat diamond is a wonderful choice for a ring: it's visually appealing without being overly expensive. This size serves as a good benchmark for many individuals who have an average income. A well-cut diamond in this size can be incredibly beautiful and practical.
- 1.5 Carat — If you're looking to invest in a slightly larger stone, a 1.5-carat diamond is an excellent option—it's impressive without being too extravagant. A high-quality cut can make these stones quite eye-catching. However, diamonds above this weight may appear large on smaller fingers and can be more costly. Still, there are many attractive and affordable options in the 1.75-carat range.
- 2 Carat — A 2-carat diamond is very striking, but it can push the limits of budget and practicality for most people. Depending on the setting, diamonds of this weight and larger can sit quite high and may be easy to bump into things. Additionally, this size may start to feel excessive for some.
- 2+ Carat — Diamonds over 2 carats are substantial, both in size and price, and they often serve to make a bold statement. If you're considering a diamond of this size, it's crucial to try on various samples and understand the practical aspects of wearing such a large ring. A low-profile setting will help minimize the risk of damage. However, if you’re spending between $25,000 and $50,000 on a diamond, you may not be reading this guide—though it’s still worth your attention.
Lab-Grown Diamonds
We’ve been mining diamonds from the Earth for thousands of years, but recently, lab-grown diamonds have emerged as a significant alternative. They offer two main advantages: price and sourcing ethics. Lab-grown diamonds often cost about 70% less than natural diamonds, which represents a substantial savings that can impact your purchase decisions significantly.
Additionally, lab-grown diamonds, by definition, cannot be sourced from conflict zones, nor do they involve slave labor or contribute to pollution and other issues in source countries. However, it’s worth noting that they also do not create jobs in those areas.
While these lab-grown diamonds are relatively new to the market, they do have lower resale value, and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) does not grade them, which means you’ll receive second-tier reports. Nevertheless, if you pay attention to the details, they can be an excellent value.